whilstaway.

View Original

Journey to the Gold Coast: Year of Return

You’ve probably heard more about Ghana this past year alone than you have in your entire life and if you had never heard of this West African country before (unless you’re Patrick Star) then you’re probably more than familiar with it now and heck, have probably visited within the past 12 months or will be spending the Gregorian New Year’s there, along with thousands of other people from all over the world.  

In recent years Africa has been a big draw for people, especially within millennial who have felt a calling to the motherland, a yearning to reconnect with their ancestry and see more than what had been fed to them from Eurocentric and American channels. This year, more than in recent history, there is a mass wave of people from across the diaspora and beyond who have committed to visiting the continent, specifically Ghana.

That could be due to the Year of Return, a term coined the end of 2018 by the current President of Ghana, Nana Akufo- Addo, whilst on a visit to Washington D.C last September. Stating rather poignantly,  “We know of the extraordinary achievements in the diaspora made to the lives of Americans, it is important that this symbolic year-400 years later-we commemorate their existence and their sacrifices.”  

Lake Bosomtwe

It was the sounding call heard around the world, as literally every travel group I know of has led a tour there this year or is wrapping up their year in Ghana, along with thousands of other people. Plenty of celebrities have visited in the past year, including Boris Kodjoe, Anthony Anderson, Jidenna, Idris Iba, Rosaria Dawson and many more will visit like Beyonce. So, if you find yourself amongst the scores of people visiting my ethnic homeland this coming week and beyond, here’s a list of some of my favorite places in the country that I have visited personally and I know will increase the overall experience of your trip to the motherland. 

The kids of Jamestown

Accra:

The capital of Ghana, Accra is a bustling hub of commerce, culture and arts, restaurants, street food, national monuments and more. Traffic is utterly ludicrous so be sure to give yourself more than enough time to get your destinations. Uber works in the capital so getting around is a breeze, but for a more local and even cheaper travel experience, use a tro-tro. They’re independently owned vans that go to pretty much every corner of the city. Skip this if you’re really tall. Legroom is not a thing on these, but then again, it’s an experience. 

 Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park: 

Dedicated to the first president of Ghana, Dr Kwame Nkrumah, the park contains a mausoleum that houses his body as well as that of his wife, Faith Nkrumah. The building is actually meant to represent an upside-down sword, a symbol of peace in the Akan culture. You’ll find a museum containing original items worn by Nkrumah and other relics from the independence movement. There’s a fee to enter, with the price varying for Ghanaians and foreigners. 

 Black Star Square: 

Completed in 1961, this public square is host to numerous national events, including the annual Independence Day Parade, which falls on the 6th of March. You’ll find three monuments commemorating the fight for an independent and liberated Ghana- the Independence Arch, Liberation Day Monument and the Black Stars Monument.  The stadium stands can hold up to 30,000 people. The square is free to visit. 

 

Makola Market Place:

Peruse through this renowned open-air market that’s dominated by women traders. It’s the largest of its kind in the capital, where you’ll find an array of products from clothes, car parts, fresh produce and hand made jewellery.

Haggle for the best price on Kente fabrics and other souvenirs.  In case an afternoon in the marketplace stirs up an appetite, there are plenty of stalls selling local dishes and drinks to sate your appetite. 

Jamestown:

The site of the yearly summer festival, Chalewote, Jamestown is one of the oldest districts in Accra and is a remnant of colonial communities that emerged around the 17th century due to trading posts built by the British.

It’s now primarily a fishing community that’s inhabited by the Ga, who speak a local language by the same name. A prominent landmark is the Accra Light, a lighthouse that replaced the original Jamestown Light built by at James Fort by the British in 1871. Filled with vibrant murals and graffiti, Jamestown is definitely worth an hour or two of your time. 

 Cape Coast:

Giving to its name, the city is situated along the Atlantic Ocean coastline and offers a calmer reprieve from the bustling capital city.  Swaying palm trees, a cool breeze from the ocean, fresh catches of the day from the many fishermen that line the shores (be sure to take a moment to admire the boats. You’ll almost think you were at a beachfront in Phuket or Krabi, Thailand.

The coast also has the tragic history of being a holding place for many of the slaves that were sold into the Atlantic Slave Trade. There are over two-dozen slave castles in the city and for many of our ancestors, once they arrived at these encampments, known today as Slave Castles, they were never seen again. Subjected to inhumane living standards and treatments- chained in darkened dungeons, no separate toilet facilities, raped by their colonial masters, forced servitude within the castle grounds, this was their new life making before passing through a “Door of no Return” and making the Middle Passage journey across the Atlantic.

You would be remiss to visit the country and not make a day trip to the Coast and explore at least one castle. Below are two that I’ve personally visited. It can take a toll on your mind and spirit, so be ready for heavy feeling whilst touring the grounds. 

City centre Cape Coast, near the Cape Coast Castle

Elmina:

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Elmina was the first trading post built on the Gulf of Guinea and stands to this day as the oldest European building south of the Sahara. It became an important stop during the Atlantic Slave Trade, with thousands of captured or sold slaves being held here before making their fateful voyages across the Atlantic.

Throughout it’s 537 year old history, it’s passed on from the Portuguese who built it and were the first colonizers to engage in the Atlantic Slave Trade, then on to the Dutch, then the British and finally came under control of Ghana after independence in 1957. 

Cape Coast Castle:

Sharing a similar history to Elmina, this castle was also established by the Portuguese in 1555. It was the first of the almost forty slave castles I visited in Ghana and the experience is just surreal. I was entirely alone at the castle in October 2013 and after I was given a guided tour, I walked around the grounds and imagined what it must have felt like to be ripped apart from family and friends, shackled like an animal- my fate no longer my own. It’s definitely an experience that stays with you. 

 The Obamas visited in 2009, which was especially meaningful for Michelle as her roots trace back to slave trade. There is a plaque on the grounds dedicating their visit. 

Kakum National Park:

I’ll keep this brief, as I wrote a blog post about this park a few months ago. You can refer to it for more info. A notable mention for this lush tropical forest is that it’s one of only three locations on the continent with a canopy walkway. 

 

 Kumasi:

Wooden stools to represent The Golden Stool. The ultimate seat of power in the Ashanti Kingdom

The second-largest city in the country, Kumasi is my parent’s hometown and where I lived and went to primary school before moving back to the U.S. It is also the capital of the Ashanti Kingdom, which was founded in the late 17th century by Osei Tutu and his advisor, Okomfo Anokye.

Founder and first king of the Ashanti Kingdom, Otumfuo Osei Tutu

The kingdom still exists today as a modern-day monarchy and is a constitutionally protected, sub-national proto-state within Ghana. Rich with the culture of the Ashanti people, home to the country’s only natural lake and even nicknamed “The Garden City” because of it’s lush filled flower and plant species, it’s worth visiting for a couple of days if you have the time. 

 Adum Marketplace:

Adum market place

Similar to the open-air Makola Market in the capital, Adum, located in Kejetia has everything you could possibly need, from traditional stalls selling fine Kente fabrics, household products, along with modern stores for electronics, groceries and more. 

 Kumasi Fort and Military Museum:

Learn about the military history of the Ashanti Kingdom, the 1900 Ashanti Rebellion against the British and it’s leader, the Queen Mother, Ohemaa Yaa Asantewaa. 

Touring the war planes with my cousins.

Your entrance fee comes with a guided tour and you are free to roam around the grounds afterwords.

Lake Bosomtwe:

When was the last time you visited an impact crater lake? That’s right, Lake Bosomtwe, also spelt, Bosumtwi, was formed about 1.7 million years ago from an asteroid crash. It’s a favorite recreational area for locals and offers various water sport activities and boat rides. Fishing is a large part of the community so if you’re in the mood for freshly caught fish that’s fried in front of you, then you are in luck. Enjoy it with some hot pepper and fried plantain.

Mum and me at Lake Bosomtwi. April 2016